Deirdre's Adventures

Hiking England’s South West Coast Path – Section One
June 5^th – 17^th 2017

The South West Coast Path National Trail represents 630 miles of stunning coastal scenery around the South West peninsula of England. With its origins dating back to the 1800’s as a coastguard patrol route to deter smuggling, today the South West Coast Path is England’s longest National Trail. Described in the Lonely Planet Great Adventures Guide (2012) as “walking at its most diverse, most spectacular and most delicious” this multi award winning trail is one of the world’s greatest walks and is regularly used to provide backdrop to TV and film productions.

Looking back to Ulfred Point. Photographer Jaap Gaasenbeck

Its truly special nature is reflected in the array of official designations it has collected over the years. As it threads its way around the coastline, the Coast Path passes through a number of National Nature Reserves and Heritage Coasts, five Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty, two World Heritage Sites, a UNESCO designated Biosphere reserve and a Geopark, as well as one National Park. No wonder the South West Coast Path has been featured in the National Geographic Traveler magazine, alongside The Times, The Telegraph, The Guardian newspapers among others, and has been featured as one of ten top worldwide walks in a German travel documentary and been two times winner in the British magazine Walk for Best British Walking Route.

Join us hiking the first 100 miles of this spectacular National Trail and discover its beauty and its hidden gems. This trip is the first in a series of six, with the goal of covering all 630 miles in total. Whether you join all six trips or pick and choose your favorite sections, you’ll be assured of a feast for your eyes, a sense of fulfillment within your soul and a thoroughly good workout for the rest of you.

Mrs. Butler was the quintessential leader--gracious, efficient, and cheerful. This was

my second trip with her and I would highly recommend her.

Carolyn Happer, Raleigh, NC

Itinerary

Day 1 June 5 (D): Meet near the village of Selworthy at our hotel, a 17^th century country house located in the heart of Exmoor National Park in south west England. After getting settled we’ll meet for an introductory talk to address last minute questions before our welcome dinner.

Culbone Woods. Photographer Ted Forman,
Warlington, Surrey

Day 2 June 6 (B,L,D): Minehead to Porlock

After taking our photos at the iconic South West Coast Path bronze monument marking the start of the 630 mile trail we set off on this first section experiencing a multitude of habitats – woodlands, steep cliff tops, fields and wooded combes or valleys. The Exmoor coast hosts a rich variety of fauna and flora – some unique to the area such as whitebeam trees, related to the rowan or mountain ash. On a clear day, views across the Bristol Channel to the Welsh coast might include the tiny islands of Steep Holm and Flat Holm. (9½ miles with 1,100 – 1,400 feet of ascent)

Day 3 June 7 (B,L,D): Porlock Weir to Lymouth

Leaving the open harbor of Porlock Weir behind us, we start the day with a steep climb into Yearnor Wood and on to Culbone Church, the smallest parish church in England and the woodland path through Glenthorne Estate. The trail along this Exmoor Heritage Coast then becomes more remote, overlooking parts of the cliff edge with some fine viewpoints. We continue to Countisbury Hill and a spectacular cliff path which takes us down to Lynmouth. The charming twin towns of Lynmouth and Lynton were named “Little Switzerland” by the Victorians. (12½ miles, with 1,400 feet of ascent)

Day 4 June 8 (B,L,D): Lynmouth to Trentishoe

From Lynmouth, we take the path near the cliff railway which winds uphill to Lynton, and then follow the North Walk along the seaward side of Hollerday Hill and into the Valley of Rocks with its unusual geological features. The coast path takes us past Lee Bay and Woody Bay. After a descent almost to sea level, we climb steeply up out of Heddons Mouth Cleave. We then follow the high level path west above East Cleave until we strike inland for Trentishoe Down and Holdstone Down. (9¼ miles, with 1,800 feet of ascent)

Ilfracombe. Photographer Phil Maker, Devon.

Day 5 June 9 (B,L,D): Trentishoe to Ilfracombe

After our last breakfast at our hotel in Selworthy we’ll board our minibus to return to Trentishoe where we left off last night. Our bags will be transported separately to our new lodgings, located in the old market town of Barnstaple on the River Taw. We will lodge here for the remainder of our trip. From Holdstone we start along a wide open track leading round to Holdstone Down and the deep valley of Sherrycombe. A steep ascent out of the combe and up to Great Hangman (the highest point on the whole of the South West Coast Path) follows and we continue on to Little Hangman overlooking Combe Martin. After a short stop in the town we continue along the coast path to Watermouth Bay, round the headlands to Hele and up to Hillsborough for its fine views. We then descend into Ilfracombe where we’ll enjoy a pub dinner and perhaps a local ale. (9½ miles with 1,700 feet of ascent)

Day 6 June 10 (B,L,D): Ilfracome to Woolacombe

Ilfracombe is renowned for its Tunnel Beaches. Hand carved in the 1830’s by hundreds of Welsh miners, the tunnels allowed safe access to the ideal bay below the cliffs for the new and increasingly popular pastime the “art of swimming”. After admiring the view of Crewkhorne Cove from the cliff top, we have a steep climb up Torrs Walk to the old coast track on the open downs. We pass the historic lime kilns at Lee Bay and head towards Bull Point Lighthouse first constructed in 1879. The jagged, rocky headland of Morte Point and surrounding area is designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) for its impressive maritime heath-land and grasses. Gray seals and gannets might be seen around the dreaded Morte Stone – or Death Stone! One can imagine the wrecking and smuggling activities of days past.
(7 miles with 1,969 feet of ascent)

Widmouth Head with Watermouth behind.
Photographer Jaap Gaasenbeek

Day 7 June 11 (B,L): Woolacombe to Croyde Dinner on your own.

Much of this North Devon Heritage Coast area is managed by the National Trust and is renowned for its abundance of wild flowers including eyebright, orchids, thyme and broomrape. Depending on the tide, we may walk along the sands making time to stop and watch any surfers or along the road/track between Woolacombe and Putsborough. We head out to Baggy Point, our most westerly point, with its fine views of Lundy Island and Wales and then follow the track east along the SSSI cliffs noted for geological interest into Croyde Bay where we conclude today’s walk. The remainder of the day is free for you to explore Barnstaple and sample some of its culinary delights on your own. (6 miles with 656 feet of ascent)

Day 8 June 12 (B,L,D): Croyde to Braunton

Pending tide conditions, we’ll walk the entire length of Saunton Sands passing the lines of brightly colored beach huts and around the ruins of the lighthouse at Crow Point. Abutting this shoreline is the UNESCO biosphere reserve which includes Braunton Burrows National Nature Reserve, one of the largest sand dune systems in Britain. Braunton is renowned for its Great Field, an example of one of the few remaining medieval open-field systems, comprised of 350 acres divided into strips separated by grass banks, each a foot wide. Upon entering the village, we’ll take a detour to visit St Brannocks Church, dating mainly from the 13^th century with its impressive wide nave and 15^th century bosses, carved bench-ends and Jacobean woodwork. (9 miles with 492 feet of ascent)

Day 9 June 13 (B,L,D): Braunton to Instow

Today our route is almost level following old railway tracks and the Tarka Trail along the estuary of the River Taw. This is part of North Devon’s Biosphere Reserve. With views of the estuary we might see curlew, oyster catcher and egret enjoying their natural habitat. We cross the River Taw via the historic stone Long Bridge of Barnstaple heading towards Fremington Quay. A long straight stretch takes us past Isley Marsh Nature Reserve an area composed of salt marsh and inter-tidal mudflats representing a key habitat for feeding and resting birds, especially wintering flocks of ducks. The village of Instow has a number of historical listed buildings, including a preserved level crossing and the UK’s first Grade 2 listed signal box, complete with original levers. (12 miles)

Day 10 June 14 (B,L): Instow/ Appledore to Westward Ho! Dinner on your own.

The start time for today will be determined by the timetable for the Instow to Appledore foot ferry. The historic port and ship building town of Appledore includes an impressive modern indoor shipyard capable of producing large ocean going steel hulled vessels. After passing through Appledore we cross Northham Burrows, a Site of Special Scientific Interest. This area of about 625 acres presents as grassy coastal plain with salt marsh and sand dunes at the mouth of the Taw/ Torridge estuary. Then onwards to Westward Ho! – the only place name in England which contains an exclamation mark and named after Charles Kingsley’s 1855 novel with the same title. Our mileage today is a short 4.8 miles allowing for rest and relaxation in preparation for the next two days of strenuous hiking.

Clovelly Harbour. Photographer Seraina Meier,
Switzerland

Day 11 June 15 (B,L,D): Westward Ho! To Clovelly

Leaving Westward Ho! we follow the old railway tracks up to Cornborough and Abbotsham cliffs, on a clear day, giving magnificent views northward to Braunton Sands and Baggy Point. In the cliff side at Buck’s Mill Cove there is a limekiln purported to have worked from 1760 – 1860 using limestone and coal imported from South Wales. Walking through the sessile oak woodlands, sheltered from the Atlantic we join The Hobby Drive, built in the early 1800’s during the Romantic Movement allowing horse-drawn carriages to reach Clovelly. We end our day walking down the steep, cobbled streets of Clovelly where cars are banned from the high street and produce delivered to residents by sledge.
(11 miles with 2,279 feet of ascent)

Hartland area. Photographer
Lorraine Berry, Barnstaple

Day 12 June 16 (B,L,D): Clovelly to Hartland Quay

We start today at the Clovelly Visitor Center located above the village and rejoin the trail passing through ancient woodland and open fields offering views of the ocean along the Hartland Devon Heritage Coast. Blackchurch Rock at Mouth Mill Cove with its two natural archways is evidence of the force of the sea. Approaching Hartland Point with its lighthouse built in 1874, the coastal rock formations become more rugged and extreme and the landscape changes becoming barren and windswept. The Quay at Hartland was commissioned in 1586, following a parliamentary bill sponsored by Sir Francis Drake and Sir Walter Raleigh, among others. This busy port shipped granite, coal and farm produce until it began to break up towards the end of the 1800’s. Today, nothing remains of the original quay. Tonight we enjoy our farewell dinner in Barnstaple. (10 miles with 2,279 feet of ascent)

Day 13 June 17 (B)

Our South West Coast Path adventure ends after breakfast at our B&B in Barnstaple.

Watch for the next installment, Section Two, encompassing North Devon and North Cornwall – a tough and rugged coastline shaped by the full force of the Atlantic Ocean resulting in dramatic cliffs and a switch back of hills and valleys to cross.

Meals provided are designated after the date in brackets where B=Breakfast, L=Lunch, D=Dinner. Vegetarians are easily accommodated.

Our accommodation in Selworthy is an historic country hotel set in its own gardens with extensive lawns and great walks right from the doorstep. Our lodgings in Barnstaple are B&B’s located a short walk from the historic town center, and set within their own peaceful gardens.

Deirdre brought us into her home country and shared her family and friends. I understand why some Sierra Club participants were taking the same trip twice.
Kristine Markwell, Eugene, OR

Please Note:

The above is the planned daily schedule. Inclement weather or poor trail conditions could require changes to the itinerary at short, or no notice.

The trip starts and ends in different locations. The trip leader is happy to give advice and direction on in-country travel and how best to get around.

Travel insurance is highly recommended. Contact USI Travel Insurance Services (800) 937-1387

https://select.travelinsure.com/

Shared Goal with Sierra Club Outings:

The juxtaposition of conservation land management and traditional versus modern farming practices are a common challenge worldwide.

More people than ever are living in and visiting Britain’s National Parks and many people continue to make a living off the land. However, this landscape is vulnerable and it is careful land management that continues to shape and move landscapes towards a sustainable future. Land and sea-based ecosystems have been degraded over time and climate change will exacerbate existing pressures on wildlife, as well as adding new ones.

Protecting wildlife sites is of key importance but restoring habitat connections is also critical. Exmoor National Park is a living, working landscape. As well as hosting some of the country’s most spectacular landscapes it also hosts thousands of businesses. Within the Exmoor National Park the aim is to work with farmers and land managers whose work is vital to ensuring Exmoor’s distinct and diverse landscape is maintained and enhanced. To this end advice and land management grants are available to support their work.

In today’s modern world many people’s daily activities are detached from nature. The deep desire and need to reconnect with nature however, is evidenced by the sheer volume of people who visit National Parks and other beautiful areas of countryside.

Following the words of John Muir, Sierra Club’s founder, providing people with the opportunity to access nature and inspirational landscapes hopefully encourages a sense of shared responsibility and pride and a desire to protect for future generations.

Sign Up Details and Leaders

California Seller of Travel #CST 2087766-40

Trip Price: Sierra Club Member price $2,900. Non-member price is $3,100. Trip price includes all lodging (double-occupancy), on trip transportation, luggage transfers, most meals, gratuities, all hikes and more. Same gender room-mates will be assigned to participants traveling solo.
The trip price does not include airfare, in-country travel to the trip start and after the trip end, two dinners, beverages with meals, and expenses of a personal nature.

Sign Up: Fully complete the medical form, application form and liability waiver (to be sent under separate cover). Mail these three forms together with your deposit to the leader (see under Deposit for details). You may also scan your medical and application forms and email to deirdrebutler2@gmail.com Your reservation is not complete until your deposit payment is received. Your forms and payment will be confirmed upon receipt. The hiking on this trip is moderate to strenuous however there is ample opportunity to take rest days. Leader approval is required.

Deposit: $500 will hold your reservation with the remainder to be paid by February 15^th, 2017. Make your check payable to “Sierra Club” and mail to: Deirdre Butler, PO Box 1337, Lyons, CO 80540.

Cancellation Policy:
Refund of full deposit prior to December 1^st 2016.
December 2^nd 2016 to February 15^th 2017 deposit less $100.
No refund after February 15^th 2017 unless a suitable replacement can be found.

Single Occupancy: On request, limited availability.

Optional Extra 3 night stay June 2^nd – 4^th: An opportunity to recover from jet-lag and get into vacation-mode! Available to participants joining the Hiking England's South West Coast Path trip. Arrive in the afternoon of Friday June 2^nd, 2017 at our country hotel in Selworthy. Full board and lodging included i.e. Double-occupancy room, breakfast, lunch and dinner. Choice of day hikes including local guides. Price is $400. Please send a separate check for $50 payable to Sierra Club along with your deposit. If you cancel your trip reservation, check to be returned.

Leaders:

Deirdre Butler, a Brit by birth, grew up hiking and horseback riding in southern England. Before taking early retirement, she worked in the medical industry and traveled extensively throughout Asia and the Far East. Deirdre has trekked in the Himalayas, climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro, hiked in the Greek islands, walked across England and has enjoyed backpacking in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado. Deirdre is a certified Wilderness First Responder and has been a Sierra Club member since 2001. She now lives in Lyons, Colorado and when not hiking, enjoys making soaps and lotions, gardening and looking after her chickens.

Deirdre Butler deirdrebutler2@gmail.com

Kath Giel has been leading trips for the Sierra Club for twelve years. She loves to take adventurers to new places to explore and discover the wonders of the world. Kath has traveled to over eighty countries, and led Angeles Chapter trips in 2013, 2014 and 2016. She is a member of the leader ship team of the International Outings Subcommittee. When not traveling, Kath can be found in Northern California hiking, biking, or gardening.

Kath Giel sierrakath@gmail.com